在昆明逛茶市 | Hanging out in the Tea Market in Kunming
As the central hub of Yunnan’s tea industry, Kunming is constantly promoting the upgrading of tea culture. In addition to the traditional old teahouses, tea bars, which are popular among young people, are quietly emerging in the city.
作为云南茶产业的集中枢纽站，昆明不断推动着茶文化升级。除了传统老茶馆，一些备受年轻人喜爱的茶空间，正在这座城市悄然兴起……
“中国第一茶城”悄然变雅
More and More Elegant
The Xiongda Tea City, known as “the biggest tea city in China”, has become an icon of Kunming. For a long time, when it came to Xiongda Tea City, people would marvel at its large scale and great variety, without realizing that it was quietly becoming more and more beautiful and elegant.
有着“中国第一茶城”美誉的雄达茶文化城，是昆明的一张名片。在过去很长的一段时间里，提到雄达茶城，更多人会惊叹于其规模之大、品类之全，却不知道它正在悄无声息地变美、变雅。
Today, it has broken free from the traditional tea trading form and become a “tea culture gathering place” of different styles and categories. The artistic tea bars have allowed the concept of “afternoon tea” to really settle in Yunnan and Kunming.
如今，这里突破传统茶叶交易形式，成为了昆明风格各异、品类不同的茶文化空间聚集地，充满艺术气息的茶空间让“下午茶”真正落在了云南、长在了昆明。
The person in charge of Xiongda Tea City explained that since the beginning of this year, Xiongda Tea City, as a cultural park, has launched its first batch of urban tea bars. With their different themes of afternoon tea, they have attracted many tea lovers and received great attention on social media.
雄达茶城相关负责人介绍，今年以来，作为文化园区的雄达茶城推出了第一批城市茶空间，以不同主题的“下午茶”吸引了众多爱茶人士前往体验打卡。
“Add the tea and glutinous rice in the clay pot and bake it. When finished baking, add boiling water and your fragrant glutinous rice tea is ready.” If you click your way to the online shopping mall of Xiongda Tea City, you will find clear instructions on how to make tea, as well as selection guides and purchasing channels. The brand-new Runyuming App has opened up a new online channel for tea sales and tea culture communication.
“将茶叶和糯米一起加入土罐烘烤，烤出香味后倒入滚烫开水，香气扑鼻的糯米香茶就泡好了。”登录雄达茶文化城线上商场，泡茶攻略、选茶指南、购茶渠道清晰展示。全新上线的以润誉茗App为云茶销售、茶文化传播打开全新渠道。
Ma Mingyang is the chairman of Runyuming, which has built its brand around online tea culture to create new ways to sell tea. According to Ma, “the App enables customers to shop for tea in Xiongda Tea City online, and shares all the resources of tea stores of Xiongda offline.” Since September 2020, relying on the improved tea culture, caravan culture and ethnic minority culture, Xiongda Tea City has also carried out night activities such as iconic leisure tours, famous tea tastings, tea art performances, public tea drinking, iconic foods and cultural performances, so as to promote the economic prosperity at night of the area and its unique shops.
“App实现线上雄达茶文化城一站式严选购茶，这个平台可以共享线下雄达的所有茶商资源。”以润誉茗公司董事长马铭阳以云茶文化为品牌打造全新销售方式。自2020年9月起，雄达茶城还依托提升改造后的茶文化、马帮文化和少数民族文化氛围，开展夜间特色休闲游览、名茶品鉴、茶艺表演、大众饮茶、特色美食、文化演出等夜间活动，以“一商户一特色”促进片区夜间经济繁荣。
In Maomao Tea Bookstore, you can read books and listen to stories about tea and thoroughly enjoy the vivid tea culture. In Gumingfang Tea Factory of Lingcang, you can sit under a “growing” ancient tea tree and drink tea while watching the traces of moss, lichens and other parasitic plants on the tree trunks to truly taste the meaning of life. The elegant Xiongda Tea City will also launch a small courtyard theater this year, so that everyone can experience the brand-new tea culture brought by one table, one chair and a small snack in front of the courtyard stage.
在猫猫茶书店，选一本茶书、听一段茶故事，用心感受跃然纸上的茶文化；在临沧古茗坊茶厂，坐于“生长”的古茶树下品茶，细看树干上苔藓、地衣等寄生植物留下的痕迹，感受生命的印记……变雅后的雄达茶城，今年还将推出庭院小剧场，让大家在庭院舞台前感受一桌一椅、一茶席一点心带来的全新茶文化体验。
“御剑窑”点活古代茶艺
At Yujianyao Manshan Collection Mall you can experience the ancient tea art of Diancha. The tea leaves are ground into a fine powder and put into a bowl. Then, the unique tangping is used to pour water oven the tea, creating an extremely fine flow. After continuously whisking the tea with a chaxian, delicate foam emerges on the top. As you bring the cup to your mouth, the fragrance of tea gently flows down your throat, leaving a lingering fragrance on your lips and teeth.
将茶叶磨成粉，放入碗里，以宋人独有的“汤瓶”作注水壶，水流极细，注水时犹如蜻蜓点水。用茶筅不断搅打茶汤后，茶杯上层浮现细腻乳沫，细闻透着茶叶的芬芳，品上一口唇齿留香。
For several years, the beautiful Song Dynasty art of Diancha disappeared from the history of Chinese tea. It was thought that it was only something present in ancient poems and paintings, but now, it can be experienced in its truest form in Xiongda Tea City in Panlong District, Kunming.
这种在中国茶史上极美的“宋人点茶”技艺曾消失过数年，原本以为只能在诗词古画中领略，如今，在位于昆明市盘龙区的雄达茶城内就能原汁原味地体验。
Zhao Huicheng, the inheritor of Zhao’s Diancha explained, “Diancha requires that we choose appropriate green or white tea, pick it in advance, roast it with fire, wrap it in paper, and crush it into powder to then make the tea foam. Choose a Jianzhan, and pour boiling water very slowly while stirring, so as to make the foam flower like snow. It is not that different to today's latte art.” From time to time, he attends the tea culture exchange at the Yujianyao Manshan collection mall in Xiongda Tea City, where the four arts of decorative painting, Diancha, flower arrangement and incense burning of literati in the Song Dynasty are showcased. In addition, activities related to the Song tea culture, such as tea making, tea research, tea brewing and tea tasting are also available.
“点茶，需要挑选合适的绿茶或白茶，事先挑净、火烤、包纸锤碎、碾茶成粉，调制茶膏，选一建盏，徐徐注入沸水，击拂茶汤，打出‘雪沫乳花’，这个过程很像今天的咖啡拉花。”赵宋点茶传承人赵慧成，不定期会到雄达茶城的御剑窑慢山集物生活馆参加茶文化交流。这里还展示了宋代文人的挂画、点茶、插花、焚香四艺，呈现宋人制茶、研茶、煮茶、品茶的茶事活动。
Different from other tea shopping malls, it mainly focuses on tea sets and tea culture exchanges. Yujianyao hold tea-drinking activities with different themes for the twenty-four solar terms, allowing people to experience different tea cultures such as the Tang Dynasty’s Jiancha, the Song Dynasty’s Diancha and the Qing Dynasty’s Sanqing tea.
不同于其他的饮茶空间，这里主要以茶器和茶文化交流为主。御剑窑会在二十四节气举办不同主题的茶事活动，带领大家感受唐代煎茶、宋人点茶、清朝三清茶等不同的茶文化。
According to the manager, since the start of spring, the interior of the main hall has changed to a characteristic red Chinese style, mainly to promote and display the products of China’s Yongfengyuan porcelain. The theme of the furnishings in the store will be changed once or twice every month, completely changing the feeling of the tea rooms and providing new and exciting tea experiences. Whether drinking tea with a couple of friends or enjoying some quiet alone time, it is easy to immerse yourself in the elegant oriental charm.
主理人介绍，今年开春以后，主厅就换上了红妆里系列的国风风格，主要推介展示国瓷永丰源。据悉，每半个月到一个月，店内的陈设主题都会进行一次改换，不同时段来到不同氛围的茶包厢里，可以看到不同风格的茶器陈列。无论是三两好友喝茶聊天，还是独自一人享受静谧时光，皆可沉浸在典雅的东方气韵之中。
“俸字号”诉说冰岛故事
After more than 500 years, Icelandic tea has entered a new era with the relocation of the Old Iceland Village in March 2020. On March 28, 2020, China’s first Icelandic Tea Museum was established in Kunming.
经历了500多年的更迭，随着2020年3月冰岛老寨的搬迁，冰岛茶进入新时代。2020年3月28日，全国首家冰岛茶博馆在昆明落户。
Icelandic tea is a famous representative of pu'er tea in Yunnan. After settling in Xiongda Tea City, the Icelandic Tea Museum and its Icelandic Ancient Tea Tasting Center has brought with them the original Icelandic tea culture. The first pure pu'er tea cake made from leaves of ancient trees in Old Iceland Village is displayed here. The 35.4 million-year-old broad-leaved magnolia fossil shows Yunnan's position as the world's tea source, and the sand table of the Five Villages in Iceland allows customers to clearly understand the difference between ancient tea and Taidi tea. Icelandic tea specimens made by professional institutions and pu'er tea produced in different periods are also displayed.
冰岛茶是云南普洱茶里赫赫有名的山头茶代表，入驻雄达茶城后，“冰岛茶博馆”冰岛俸字号古树茶品鉴中心带来了原汁原味的冰岛茶文化。这里陈列着冰岛老寨第一片古树纯料普洱饼茶；3540万年前的宽叶木兰化石展示着云南作为世界茶源的自信；冰岛五寨沙盘让大家清晰地了解古树茶与台地茶的区别；专业机构制作的冰岛茶植物标本和不同时期生产的普洱年份茶也陈列其中。
In addition to making people who come to Yunnan drink a cup of pure, authentic Icelandic tea that can be traced back to the source, the Iceland Tea Museum also spreads tea culture online, from family tea parties to in-depth studies of tea mountain where tea tours are held, so that everyone can fully understand the natural growth environment of tea trees and multi-ethnic cultures.
除了致力于让来到云南的人喝到一杯可溯源、可防伪的纯正冰岛茶，冰岛茶博馆还不断传播云茶文化，从家庭茶会，到茶旅融合的茶山深度研学，让大家全方位了解茶树的自然生长环境以及多元民族文化。
小茶馆隐于山林
At the beginning of 2022, “Hidden in the Mountain”, a tea bar in the forest, opened beside the footpath of Dongchuan Forest Park in Kunming.
2022年初，在昆明市东川森林公园步道边，有了一家山林间的茶空间——“隐山”。
This quadrangle is close to Zhuguo temple and hidden in the mountains and forests. It integrates the oriental life aesthetics with a literary and artistic lifestyle, creating a natural, simple, secluded and quiet environment.
这座四合院临近祝国寺，隐于山林，将东方生活美学与文艺生活方式相融合，营造了一个自然、朴质、幽玄、静谧的环境。
“Zhuguo temple is a place where local people go to pray for blessings every year, and the environment here allows for self-cultivation,” said Ms. Zhao, the manager of the tea bar. For two years she was searching for the perfect place and this is where she found it. The 300-square meter quadrangle used to be a brick house, and after three months of renovation, its roof, doors, windows and interior decoration have taken on a new look. Eventually, her culture bar, integrating tea drinking, reading and leisure, was officially opened.
“祝国寺是当地人每年祈愿祈福常去之地，这里的环境能修身养性。”两年时间里，主理人赵女士一直在寻觅心中宝地。300多平米的四合院，以前是砖瓦房，经过3个月的改造，这里的屋顶、门窗、内饰焕然一新，一个集饮茶、看书、休闲于一体的茶文化空间正式开院。
In winter, the white snow makes the lanterns in the inner courtyard more festive, and the yellow leaves of the ginkgo trees warm the surroundings. In summer, the green trees in the forest park come into your view, and the fish pond next to the yard creates a cool breeze.
冬天，皑皑白雪把内院挂着的灯笼衬得愈发喜庆，银杏树的满满黄叶也飘来几分暖意；夏天，森林公园的绿树布满眼帘，院子隔壁的鱼塘也带来丝丝凉爽。
Here at “Hidden in the Mountain”, you can have a comfortable rest and a good cup of tea. At night, you can enjoy a sky full of stars in the artistic conception of “while picking asters 'neath the Eastern fence, my gaze upon the Southern mountain rests”. The interior decoration is simple and sweet, with warm wooden furniture, exquisite ceramic tea sets, traditional calligraphy and decorative paintings, and all kinds of tea culture elements.
坐可品茗、夜可观星，来到“隐山”，大有“采菊东篱下，悠然见南山”的意境。茶院内部装饰简约温暖，暖色木质家具、精美陶瓷茶具、传统书法挂画……茶文化元素在这里随处可见。
“I encourage people to return to nature with tea culture. Here, far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, we can come very close to our hearts.” Ms. Zhao believes that tea culture has witnessed the development of history. Even as modern people are rushing about in life, more and more people are willing to slow down their pace and explore culture and feelings, an inward, forward exploration tracing back to the source.
“带着茶文化回归自然，离城市虽远，离心却很近。”她认为，茶文化见证了历史发展，当现代人都奔波于生活之时，相信也有更多人愿意换个脚步去探寻文化与感受，这更多的是一种向内、向前，追根溯源的探索。
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